Hamtramck inspires a rabid loyalty in many of its residents, both “lifers” and “newbies.” It isn’t hard to understand this enthusiasm after you spend some time walking its streets, shopping its markets, hanging out in the local pubs — and talking to folks that live there. There is a strong sense of energy and community that isn’t found in many places these days.
“Hamtramck is a unique place because it’s a community. It’s a best-kept secret, in my opinion,” says Henry Velleman, who owns and rents lofts in the city within a city.
In a city of just 2.1 square miles whose school district enrolls students that speak 26 distinct languages and dialects, the mesh of different cultures is one that is tightly woven. Although commonly known as a Polish enclave, Hamtramck increasingly attracts immigrants from Yugoslavia, Serbia, Bosnia, Yemen, India and Bangladesh, along with many other nations. Its traditional Roman Catholic heritage has been joined with an increasingly Muslim population. This infusion of new blood means that Hamtramck’s once-declining shopping districts now offer an increasingly wide selection of specialty goods.
Hamtramck also has a diverse range of housing types. There are large brick houses, more modest bungalows and loft apartments. Single family homes generally go for about $40 to $70 per square foot, ranging from about $50,000 to $135,000.
Many people find their place of residence by checking out the listings in the weekly Hamtramck Citizen. There are several realtors that specialize in Hamtramck sales that all advertise in the Citizen, as well as listings on Model D. As far as rentals go, many go directly to a landlord that owns many properties, such as Belleman, who rents commercial and residential lofts that range in price from $950 to $1,550 per month and range in size from 1,400 to 4,000 square feet. You can also find studio apartments in Hamtramck for $450 or less per month, and two or three bedroom apartments rent for less than $850.
Two of Velleman’s satisfied tenants are Mark Graham, a marketing manager for OnStar and Kerry McGovern, who works in brand marketing for the Palace of Auburn Hills. The couple began looking for a loft in late 2004 when McGovern decided to make the move from Los Angeles to Detroit. Although Graham resided in Royal Oak at that time, they decided that they would prefer to live together in a “more urban” environment. Although Hamtramck wasn’t necessarily their original target, they were sold on the spaciousness and affordability of their loft as well as the amount of foot traffic on Jos. Campau. “There are just more people on the street than anywhere else we looked,” says McGovern.
They love the variety of dining options, and profess to eat at Thai Bang Kok at least once a week. They also enjoy the atmosphere at Polish Village Café. “It’s like a place you’d see in a Quentin Tarantino movie,” McGovern says. “It’s ridiculously good and filling,” adds Graham.
Hamtramck’s diversity is a big selling point for lots of folks. Lifetime resident Chris Cornwell raves about the restaurants he frequents: “I can travel around the world right here.” Cornwell also regularly visits Polish Village Café and Thai Bang Kok, as well as Three Star BarBQ, Ghandi and Mainestreet Café.
Jamie Latendresse, a graphic designer and co-owner of local gallery Pr1mary Space, moved to Hamtramck in May 2003 and currently is looking to buy his first house in the city. “Hamtramck has the most potential [in Metro Detroit] to be a truly walkable, shoppable community,” he says. Several local markets, including Glory Supermarket, A&C Market and the Polish Market, have “great produce and ethnic food,” he says. “Living here, potato pancakes and pierogies are always in my fridge.”
Latendresse rents a flat in the neighborhood that he wryly brands “SoHo” for “south of Holbrook.” He notes that his end of the city is more oriented toward singles and young couples as compared to the center portion of city — between Holbrook and Caniff — which is much more family-oriented.
Basic goods and amenities are, for the most part, available right within the city limits. Latendresse and Cornwell both bank at National City on Jos. Campau north of Caniff, while Huntington National and People’s State Bank are situated kitty-corner from one another at Jos. Campau and Holbrook. Interestingly enough, the two opposite corners at that very same intersection are also host to two competitors: CVS and Rite Aid pharmacies. Do-it-yourselfers can find their auto supplies at either Murray’s or Auto Zone, and Shopper’s World on Jos. Campau at Evaline is always available for basic goods. Detroit Threads has clothes and CDs, while Record Graveyard offers loads of used vinyl. Numerous bakeries are available for fresh breads and pastries — New Polka, New Palace and New Deluxe, to name just a few.
Nightlife is a big draw. Hamtramck’s bars range from quiet neighborhood watering holes — such as Suzy’s and Seven Brothers — to raucous joints filled with a mix of residents and visitors — like New Dodge Lounge and Whiskey in the Jar — to those destinations with a regional draw — like The Belmont and Small’s.
Residents seeking peace within the midst of their hectic urban existences are able to pause at the Detroit Zen Center, located on Mitchell east of Jos. Campau. The Center, dedicated to teaching foundational Zen by engaging in its study and practice, offers yoga classes on Tuesdays and Saturdays as well as bi-weekly introductory sessions intended to provide newcomers with an opportunity to learn about Buddhism and Zen mediation.
Painter Milan Filipec, who immigrated to Hamtramck from his native Czech Republic 10 years ago, sums Hamtramck up in a nutshell: “It is a good place for an artist to live — it is affordable, and fun to be around people from many countries.”
For more information about Hamtramck visit the Model D
- Visiting Guide
- Investing Guide
Directions to
Hamtramck
From the East:
Follow I-94 west to Exit 217 toward Mt. Elliott Ave/E Grand Blvd. Turn slight left onto Edsel Ford Fwy East, and then turn right onto Mt. Elliott St. Stay straight to go onto Conant St and arrive in Hamtramck.
From the North:
Take I-75 south toward Detroit and take Exit 55 toward Caniff Ave/Holbrook Ave. Stay straight to go onto Dequindre St. and take the Dequindre St. exit on the left. Turn left onto Evaline Ave. and arrive in Hamtramck.
From the West:
Follow I-96 east to I-94 via Exit 190A toward Port Huron. Merge onto I-75 North/Chrysler Fwy via Exit 216A toward Flint. Take Exit 55 toward Holbrook Ave/Caniff Ave and continue straight to go onto Chrysler Dr. Turn right onto Holbrook Ave. and arrive in Hamtramck.
From the South:
Take I-94 east toward Detroit and merge onto I-75 North/Chrysler Fwy via Exit 216A toward Flint. Continue to Exit 55 toward Holbrook Ave/Caniff Ave and stay straight to go onto Chrysler Dr. Turn right onto Holbrook Ave. and arrive in Hamtramck.
Take I-75 north toward Detroit. Continue to Exit 55 toward Holbrook Ave/Caniff Ave and stay straight to go onto Chrysler Dr. Turn right onto Holbrook Ave. and arrive in Hamtramck.
Photos:
A typical street in Hamtramck
Sandy Kramer Shaw of Barberella
Polish Village
Record Graveyard
Small's Bar
The Zen Center
All Photographs Copyright Dave Krieger