On an evening in Corktown, art devotees huddle together, drinks in hands, poring over giant abstract paintings of mutated-human figures, or whatever happens to be the flavor of the month at Zeitgeist Gallery on Michigan Avenue.
Elsewhere along the wide thoroughfare, longtime residents, hipsters and random Red Wings fans chow on burgers (among the best in the city) at Nemo’s, the 40-year-old bar that was voted No. 3 “perfect” sports bar in the country by Sports Illustrated last year.
As the hours grow late, thirsty folks with a song in their hearts pack tiny but mighty L.J.’s, where karaoke rules Thursday nights; or, on the weekends, they get the blues at Nancy Whiskey’s; or, when everyone else is tucked in their beds, they shake their groove things at The Works.
When it comes to dining and entertainment, Corktown is not just surviving in these post-Tigers years, it’s thriving. By day, locals rub elbows with suit-and-tie downtown workers breaking for lunch, or browse the expansive shelves at John King Books. By night, urban hipsters, old-timers and suburbanites alike file in for some of the city’s best and most eclectic collection of restaurants, bars, music and dance halls.
Corktown is one of the city’s most walkable neighborhoods, meaning much of what it has to offer is accessible on foot. Ample parking is available along Michigan Avenue, making it easy to drive, then get out and explore.
Get your eat on
Detroit’s oldest neighborhood boasts a wave of newcomers that have re-invigorated the neighborhood’s restaurant scene, making the area a dining destination.
There’s so much buzz around Slows Bar BQ on Michigan Avenue you’d think they invented ribs, but the hype is well-deserved. The gorgeously renovated building has a large bar where regulars like to congregate. Even on a random Monday afternoon, of all times, patrons linger, enjoying the urban atmosphere, conversation and expansive beer menu. The bar is a scene in itself, but the food at Slows is equally as notable. There are ribs, of course, and an assortment of sauces to please, but Slows also has wonderful barbecue chicken, pulled pork, brisket and fish. The sides could stand as a meal on their own, from the tangy green beans, mac and cheese so good you’ll swear off the powdered boxed stuff and enormous waffle fries (extra cheese optional).
A little off the beaten path in the heart of the historic district, diners at the Baile Corcaigh on Bagley savor their warm Irish soda bread, sitting among the tables dressed in white linen, the handcrafted stone fireplace, shiny glasses and dark wood furnishings, while waiting for their crab cakes and steaks in whiskey sauce. The Baile Corcaigh (the Gaelic name translates to “town of Cork,” and feel free to call it by its Anglicized version, “Bally Cork”) also opened last year. It serves dressed-up pub fare — the kind of well-prepared, inspired, fresh takes on classic dishes that has become de rigueur at trendy, upscale UK pubs. So along with your bangers and mash you can try a salad of crisp mixed spring greens tossed with Irish blue cheese, or start with crepes filled with a dreamily rich mushroom and spinach mixture.
Drinking and being merry
There is no shortage of watering holes, music halls and dance venues in Corktown. It’s a great place to pub hop, especially along Michigan Avenue, where you can park and then walk up the strip, all aglow with newly installed lighting, from bar to pub and back again.
If you want to hang with scenesters and Detroit’s underground rock elite, you must go to the Lager House. It’s the place to see Rock City’s underground up close and personal, on a stage aptly not much bigger than a two-car garage. Garage rockers come here to see up-and-coming bands. Up-and-coming bands play here to be seen. Regulars include the likes of Blanche, PAS/CAL, The Hentchmen and the Paybacks. As one patron says, “It’s a great place to see Detroit’s rock royalty boozing it up.”
Another hipster hot spot is the Corktown Tavern, which has DJs spinning and bands playing upstairs. For dancing, check out The Works. This is the place to dance — and keep on dancing till just before the sun comes up. It’s gay. It’s straight. It’s open really, really late.
For a bit of vintage Corktown, trek north across I-75 to Nancy Whiskey’s. The old building at the corner of Harrison and Spruce has been the corner pub for longer than anyone alive can recall. The quintessential local bar, it also offers live music on the weekends. And at Nancy Whiskey’s, blues rules the house.
Corktown by day
Most of Corktown’s daytime visitors are the office crowds or casino workers looking for a break. And there’s almost no better pl for lunch than Mudgie's, a cool little restaurant at the corner of Brooklyn and Porter.
For breakfast, there’s nothing quite like Sundays at the Steak Hut on West Lafayette, a Corktown institution. You can get the best breakfast $3 can buy, accompanied by music from the Detroit folk duo, $2 Breakfast.
For shopping,John K. King Books at 901 W. Lafayette is a landmark. King fills up the four-story former Advance Glove factory with more books than anyone could dare to count. It’s easy to spend a perfectly good afternoon browsing the rare volumes shelved here, and expect to walk away with an armload of treasures.
Yearly gatherings
St. Patrick’s Day in Corktown is a Detroit must. The annual parade on the Sunday before the holiday draws big crowds for a spirited, lively trot down Michigan Avenue. Spectators catch candy and beads tossed from floats, and patrons pack the watering holes for some spirits of their own before, during and after the festivities.
Corktown residents celebrate a different type of green during their annual Home and Garden tour, held the first Saturday of June. The event lets you stroll through the lush landscapes around the Victorian-era homes. For more info go to www.corktowndetroit.org.
The annual Tour de Troit bike ride takes place the fourth Saturday in September. The 35-mile spin around the city starts from base of the old train station and takes hundreds of riders through Southwest Detroit, through Midtown, Jefferson East, Downtown and back. Check www.corktowndetroit.org for more information.
For a touch of history, the Workers Row House on Sixth Street between Porter and Labrosse is one of the oldest residences in the city. The circa-1840s structure is being restored by the Greater Corktown Development Corp. to house an interactive museum and community center. The project received a Cool Cities designation from the state last year.
For more information about Corktown visit the Model D
- Moving Guide
- Investing Guide
Driving To Corktown
From the East:
Take I-94 W toward Detroit, take exit 215A M-10/Lodge Fwy south toward Downtown, merge onto M-10/Lodge Fwy. Take I-75 S exit toward Toledo/Trumbull Ave, take exit toward Trumbull Ave/Tiger Stadium and turn slight left onto Fisher Fwy W, turn left on 14th St. Arrive at Michigan Ave in Corktown.
From the North:
Take I-75 S toward Detroit, take exit 49A toward Rosa Parks Blvd/Tiger Stadium. Stay straight on Fisher Fwy W, then turn left onto 14th St. Arrive at Michigan Ave in Corktown.
From the West:
Take I-96 E to I-75 N/M-10 exit on the left toward Flint/Civic Ctr. Take M-10/Lodge Fwy exit toward Rosa Parks Blvd/Civic Ctr, then take exit towards Rosa Parks Blvd and turn slight left onto W Fisher Fwy, turn right onto Vermont St. Arrive at Michigan Ave in Corktown.
From the South:
Take I-94 E toward Detroit, merge onto exit 213B for I-96 E/Jefferies Fwy toward Canada. Take I-75 N/M-10 exit on the left toward Rosa Parks Blvd/Civic Ctr, then exit towards Rosa Parks Blvd and turn slight left onto W Fisher Fwy, turn right onto Vermont St. Arrive at Michigan Ave in Corktown.
Take I-75 N toward Detroit. Take exit 48 for I-96 W on the left toward Lansing, then take US-12/Michigan Ave exit. Arrive at Michigan Ave in Corktown.
John King of John King Books
Slow's BBQ
Baile Corcaigh's Rock Map of Ireland
Music at The Lager House
John King Books
Worker's Row House
All Photographs Copyright Dave Krieger